My Journey To Parshuram Kund

An Illustration of Parshuram Kund Mela in Arunachal Pradesh: Pilgrims at the Lohit River near the massive Lord Parashurama statue and temple complex in a misty Himalayan valley. — **An illustration of Parshuram Kund,** a famous Hindu pilgrimage site located on the Brahmaputra plateau in the lower reaches of the Lohit River, Arunachal Pradesh.

On the eve of Makar Sankranti, I journeyed into the heart of Arunachal Pradesh to visit the sacred Parshuram Kund. From the vibrant Golden Pagoda in Namsai to the rugged banks of the Lohit River, every mile was a reminder of the power of faith.

My journey to Parshuram Kund began on 12 January 2025, just the day before Makar Sankranti. Rising with the dawn, I packed my rucksack with two destinations in mind: the Golden Pagoda Monastery and Parshuram Kund.

Every year during this festival, thousands of pilgrims gather at Parshuram Kund to take a holy dip in the Lohit River. I felt a surge of excitement, though I must admit, I was also a bit hesitant about the long journey ahead.

According to Hindu tradition, there is a belief that one should not visit Parshuram Kund if their parents are still alive. Since my mother is still with me, I felt a slight hesitation. When I asked her what she thought of this puzzle, she simply laughed and said, "You are visiting the Kund as a tourist!" With her blessing, my worries vanished.

Buses parked in the Parshuram Kund bus park area with lush mountains in the background — **Parshuram Kund Bus Park Area** Buses, mountains, and a whole lot of magic. The road to Parshuram Kund isn't just a trip; it’s a pilgrimage.

The Road to Namsai

The journey from Golaghat to this holy site, which is situated near the Lohit River in the mountains of Arunachal Pradesh, is a long one. Since the route passes through Namsai, I decided to break the journey there for a night to visit the town's renowned Buddhist monasteries.

My journey kicked off with a quick e-rickshaw ride to Furkating Junction, where I caught the 6:00 AM train to Tinsukia. Arriving by 11:00 AM, I headed straight for Tinsukia bus stand. The drive to Namsai was stunning—a scenic stretch of paddy fields, and vibrant Assamese, Nepalese, and Tai Khamti villages.

After a night in Namsai following a visit to the Namsai Pariyatti Sasana Buddhist Vihara, I headed to the Golden Pagoda at Tengapani the next morning. It was a breathtaking experience—you can read my full guide to the Golden Pagoda here: A Journey To Golden Pagoda Monastery, Tengapani, Namsai.

A long, dense queue of devotees in colorful winter clothing standing on a hilly road, waiting to pass through an orange welcome gate at Parshuram Kund in Arunachal Pradesh. — **Pilgrimage to Parshuram Kund, Arunachal Pradesh** A sea of devotees winding queue along the mountain road, leading toward the Parshuram Kund entrance. Thousands gather here annually during Makar Sankranti for a sacred dip in the Lohit River.

The Journey to Parshuram Kund

After three hours at the Golden Pagoda, I headed to the main road, where a bus to Parshuram Kund appeared almost as soon as I signaled. The conductor welcomed me aboard the crowded vehicle. Initially, I stood in the aisle, gripping the overhead bar for balance. However, when a passenger soon disembarked, I happily claimed their vacated window seat.

As the bus pushed deeper into Arunachal Pradesh, the landscape shifted. Wooden houses peeked through dense groves, and our rattling bus kicked up thick dust from the rugged, unpaved road. However, the rustic charm of wooden houses and dusty village shops was soon interrupted by the jarring sight of sawmills on the route. Huge logs lay scattered across the yards like fallen giants, stripped of their dignity and waiting for the buzz of the machinery.

A paved walkway with metal railings leads toward a stone archway decorated with red flags and bells. To the right is a large pink wall featuring the bold red hashtag sign PARSHURAM KUND. People are walking toward the entrance, and a security guard stands on the left. The site is nestled against a backdrop of rugged, forested hills under a hazy sky. — **The sacred gateway to Parashuram Kund** nestled in the rugged hills of Arunachal Pradesh, welcoming pilgrims who journey to the banks of the Lohit River for a holy dip. Guarded by security for the Makar Sankranti festival, this site represents a powerful intersection of ancient Hindu tradition and the vibrant faith of thousands of devotees.

Watching a truck pass by, overflowing with timber, a wave of grief washed over me. While Arunachal Pradesh is still blessed with vast forest cover, I couldn't help but feel a profound sadness for these trees. It raised a heavy question: in an era of accelerating climate change, why are we still dismantling our ancient guardians? I understand that these beams are moved under official permits, but "legal" does not always mean "sustainable." We have the ingenuity to find alternatives to old-growth wood; protecting what remains is no longer a choice—it is a necessity for our survival.

After about two hours, the bus began a steep climb, and the view from my window transformed entirely. Vast hills, blanketed in ancient forests, stretched out for miles. A quick check of Google Maps confirmed we were passing through the Kamlang Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary.

Aerial view of the turquoise Lohit River flowing through rocky mountains at Parshuram Kund, showing the sacred bathing ghat and surrounding forest. — **Parshuram Kund, Arunachal Pradesh** The ghat at where people gather to take a holy dip.

Arrival at Parshuram Kund

Mesmerized by rolling hills and dense canopy, I lost all track of time until the bus slowed to a crawl. Ahead, a long queue of vehicles snaked into the distance, and the cabin buzzed with talk of a traffic jam. I realized we had arrived at Parshuram Kund. Our bus began to inch forward, following the vehicle in front of us as we slowly maneuvered into the crowded parking area. As we finally pulled in, the entire bus erupted in a spirited, collective shout: "Jai Parashurama Baba ki Jai!"

Nestled in the scenic lower reaches of the Lohit River, Parshuram Kund is situated in the Telu Shati/Tailung area of Arunachal Pradesh’s Lohit District. Its sanctity is well-documented in ancient texts; the 8th-century Kalika Purana recognizes it as a sacred site, while the Yogini Tantra claims that an immersion in its waters washes away all sins. In 1873, traveler T.T. Cooper mentioned about this place as Bramakund in his book The Mishmee Hills. He described the kund as a delicate streamlet trickling into a deep rock basin. He noted that the basin teemed with large fish, fed by the Hindu fakirs who guarded the spring. At the time, pilgrims from across Assam and Bengal would travel there during the cold season to bath and feed the fish—creatures the local Mishmees believed were the spirits of departed holy men.

While the site has been revered for centuries, the organized annual mela during Makar Sankranti only began in 1972. Recently, the landscape has been transformed; the State Government and the Ministry of Tourism have modernized the area with a new Tourist Complex. Furthermore, under the PRASHAD Scheme, the site now offers 24–hour catering services to feed the thousands of devotees who congregate during the festival.

A wide shot of the Parshuram Kund temple complex in Arunachal Pradesh during a hazy sunset. The main structure is a striking golden-yellow temple with a tiered roof and a saffron flag flying from its spire. Numerous devotees in colorful clothing are scattered across the dirt courtyard, some walking toward the shrine and others gathered in small groups. Lush green trees and a misty forest background frame the scene, with a glimpse of an orange-roofed building in the distance. — Devotees gather outside the **Golden Temple at Parshuram Kund**, a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site nestled in the misty lower reaches of the Lohit District, Arunachal Pradesh.

Mats, Mandirs, and the Holy Dip

Stepping off the bus, I was immediately met by a fierce wind howling from the south. It was strong enough to whip my jacket collar against my face, and I watched as fellow travelers struggled to keep their footing and their belongings secure as they began the trek toward the temple.

In the distance, atop a small hill, crowds swirled around a central site where a loudspeaker cut through the wind with continuous announcements: "We kindly request all devotees to visit the Community Hall for registration and bedsheet collection. Complimentary meals are currently being served to everyone. Please exercise extreme caution if you plan to bathe in the Lohit River. If you need help, look for our guides or security staff stationed throughout the area."

I began walking toward the source of the voice and soon entered the Parshuram temple complex. The area was heavily guarded by armed security and Arunachal Pradesh police personnel. I made my way to the tourist complex, where two men in green uniforms were distributing foam mats to the visitors. After registering my name, I grabbed a mat and scanned the crowded complex for a place to rest. The building was packed with people—men, women, children, and the elderly. Finally, I found a small, empty spot on the west veranda, just outside the hall near a road. I rolled out my white foam sheet and collapsed onto it.

A large, bright orange dining hall building at Parshuram Kund with a red roof, featuring a long queue of devotees standing on steps and a ramp. — **The dining facility at Parshuram Kund** operates under *Parshuram Seva Samiti* to provide round—the–clock catering services. This initiative ensures that the thousands of devotees who congregate during the festival are fed throughout their pilgrimage.

After resting for half an hour, I headed to the dining area where food was being served. They were offering a spread of rice, dal, sabji, and hot puris. I took a plate and quickly devoured it all—I hadn't realized how hungry I was.

Rejuvenated, I made my way toward the stone steps leading to the Lohit River. The path first climbed a few hundred meters before descending toward the riverbank where pilgrims gather for the holy dip. The security presence was constant: at every turn of the staircase stood a female police officer flanked by two soldiers.

The wind continued to howl, and the tall trees lining the steps groaned with a rhythmic sis-sos sound. I descended until the view opened up, revealing the river and the far bank. Much of the riverbed—nearly 70%—had dried up, leaving the water to flow narrowly against our side of the bank, where people were immersed in their sacred baths.

After capturing a few photos of the river’s edge, I began the long climb back up. Reaching the ancient Parshuram Kund temple, I found a massive crowd had already gathered. A group of devotees was lost in a vibrant kirtan, their chants filling the air. I moved toward the statue of Lord Parashurama; he stood resolute, clutching his legendary axe in one hand and a massive bow in the other. The sight was both powerful and solemn. I took a few photographs, attempting to frame the strength of his posture against the reverence of the space, before finally retreating to the humble comfort of my foam mat.

A majestic dark stone statue of Lord Parashurama standing at Parshuram Kund, Arunachal Pradesh, holding a large bow and an axe (Parashu), adorned with flower garlands and surrounded by ritual oil lamps. — **The Statue of Lord Parashurama,** situated at the sacred Parshuram Kund in Arunachal Pradesh. Depicted with his iconic bow and axe, the statue serves as a powerful symbol of penance, discipline, and the protection of Dharma. (The original shot has been converted into a sketch.)

The Legend of Parashurama

Whenever the name Parashurama is mentioned, the first thought that often comes to mind is the chilling account of him taking the life of his mother, Renuka. However, his story is far more complex than this single act.

Parashurama is one of the ten primary avatars (incarnation) of Lord Vishnu. He shares the name Ram with the seventh avatar. His father, Jamadagni, once commanded Parashurama to behead his mother to test his absolute obedience. Despite the horror of the task, Parashurama complied. He is also famously depicted wielding a massive bow of Lord Shiva. As a legendary warrior, he is most known for his vow to avenge his father's murder by a Kshatriya, leading him to eradicate the world's male Kshatriyas 21 successive times.

The act of matricide, though done out of obedience, bore a heavy spiritual price. According to legend, the bloodied axe stuck on his hand as a manifestation of his sin. In search of redemption, Parashurama wandered across the land seeking a holy site where he could cleanse his weapon and his soul. He finally found success at the Lohit River in Arunachal Pradesh. Upon dipping his hand into the waters, the axe finally detached, marking his purification. This sacred site is known today as Parshuram Kund, a significant pilgrimage destination for devotees.

A high-angle landscape shot showing the long Lohit Bridge spanning across the turquoise Lohit River, surrounded by steep, lush green mountains and vast sandy riverbanks under a clear sky. — **The Lohit Bridge** offers a vital connection across the Lohit River near the sacred site of Parshuram Kund in Arunachal Pradesh, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Eastern Himalayas.

One Floor, Many Worlds

By 6:00 PM, I was lying on my mat, resting from the day's journey; however, it didn't last long; soon, a steady stream of pilgrims arrived, clutching their own mats and scanning the floor for any available space.

Two women—one elderly and the other middle-aged, both tall and sturdy—claimed the spot right next to me. I greeted them in Assamese, asking where they had traveled from, but they looked at me blankly. I tried again in Hindi, yet they still didn't understand. It was only when they began speaking to each other in Tamil that I realized they had likely traveled all the way from South India.

A moment later, two large families occupied the empty space on my other side. Recognizing the familiar cadence of Bengali, I struck up a conversation in my mother tongue.

"Where are you all from?" I asked.

One of the men smiled, replying that they had journeyed down from North Bengal. In that small square of floor, surrounded by the sounds of Tamil and Bengali, the true scale of the pilgrimage became clear: a gathering of different worlds meeting in a single house of faith.

A high-angle shot showing two long, orderly queues of devotees—men on the left and women in colorful attire on the right—separated by a security officer as they walk down a paved path toward the Parashuram Kund holy site. — **A Journey of Faith** Beneath the soft glow of a Makar Sankranti morning, a sea of devotees flows toward the sacred waters of Parashuram Kund. Security personnel are positioned between the distinct lines of men and women to manage the flow and maintain order.

A Test of Devotion

Later that evening, I wandered toward the dining area, where tea and biscuits were being distributed. Clutching a plastic cup of warm tea, I walked toward the entrance gate and stood, gobsmacked. A massive queue of devotees snaked down the steps, disappearing into the distance. They were waiting for their turn to take a holy dip. I tried to estimate the distance from the gate to the riverbank; it looked to be several hundred meters of human patience. I turned to a man in the queue and asked how long he expected to wait before reaching the water.

"Five or six hours," he replied calmly.

That meant he wouldn't reach the river until 2:00 AM. I was profoundly moved by their unwavering faith in Lord Parashurama. Another devotee informed me that the line wouldn't stop growing until the following morning. I spent some time walking between the rows—men on one side, women on the other—watching a sea of souls bound together by a single, sacred purpose.

A man wearing a hooded jacket sitting on a large grey boulder in the middle of a vast, rocky riverbed. In the background, there is a plume of smoke, other distant figures, and steep, forested hills under a dim sky. — Mithu Das, the author of Assambirds, sits among the smooth river stones on the dry bed of the Lohit River. This location is situated directly opposite the main ghat of Parashuram Kund, a famous Hindu pilgrimage site in Arunachal Pradesh.

A Morning of Devotion and Danger

I couldn't sleep well at the night; the noisy crowd kept me awake. Besides, at around 2:00 AM the siren of an ambulance disturbed my sleep. (Later, I came to know that a devotee while he was taking bath fainted. Security personnel carried him on a stretcher to the Ambulance.) I was waiting for the morning light. At around 5:30 AM I made my way toward the Lohit Bridge, which is situated a few hundred meters away from the temple complex. Standing on the bridge I could see a literal human chain snaking along the hillside and descending toward the ghats below.

While most people stayed on the bridge, some began crossing it to explore the dry riverbed. Intrigued, I decided to follow them. The riverbed was dried left with massive boulders and loose gravel. Every step was a gamble; I moved with deliberate care, knowing that one wrong move on the slick stones could result in a serious injury.

I eventually reached the towering rock standing directly opposite the ghat. The scene was a hive of activity—pilgrims scattered across the landscape, some finding quiet corners to pray, while others braved the water for their ritual bath. I stood there for a moment, lost in the raw beauty of the nature surrounding us and the fervor of the people. The tranquility was broken when two security guards began marching toward our group, their voices echoing over the roar of the water. They ordered us to clear the area immediately, issuing a stern warning: the current was deceptively strong, and swimming was strictly forbidden. Not wanting to test my luck, I quickly snapped a few photos and retreated to safer ground.

A wide shot of the Parashuram Kund Mela ground featuring temporary tents, market stalls, and pilgrims walking along a riverside path. In the background, large, steep mountains with visible rocky patches rise under an overcast sky. — A vibrant gathering of devotees and local vendors at the **Parashuram Kund Mela ground**, situated against the backdrop of the rugged Himalayan foothills.

The Marketplace and the Mela

By the time I returned to the temple complex, the crowd had swelled even further. A massive queue now stretched all the way from the main road, surging toward the temple steps. It was a humbling sight—a sea of humanity that included everyone from energetic youths to elderly men and women, all waiting with tireless patience.

Seeking a change of pace, I headed down toward the flat land below the road where a mela (fair) was in full swing. The atmosphere here was vibrant and bustling. I soon found myself wandering through a small, lively market where local vendors were selling heaps of fresh oranges. Though the fruit was small, the oranges were incredibly juicy and hit the tongue with a burst of sweetness. These oranges were a local treasure, grown high in the surrounding hills and transported down to the fair in small vehicles to be shared with the gathering crowds.

A wide landscape of the Lohit River flowing near Parshuram Kund in Arunachal Pradesh, featuring a massive, exposed rock scar on a mountainside and a wide, stony riverbank with small vehicles. — **The 1950 Assam–Tibet earthquake** permanently altered the Lohit River's landscape at Parshuram Kund, leaving visible geological scars on the rugged terrain of this pilgrimage site.

The Journey Home

Around 11:00 AM, I made my way back to the bus stand—which was less of a terminal and more of a simple ticket counter tucked beside a local hotel. A single blue bus stood waiting in the middle of an open field, looking solitary against the landscape.

I purchased my ticket and climbed aboard. As I settled into my seat, the quiet morning began to shift; a steady stream of reserved buses and private cars started their return journeys one by one. The once–empty road suddenly hummed with activity, signaling the end of the pilgrimage for many as the vibrant world of the mela began to recede behind us.

Traveler’s Note: Parshuram Kund is roughly 180 km from Tinsukia (via Namsai and Dirak Gate); 56 km from Tezu Airport, and 200 km from Dibrugarh Airport. Remember, an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is mandatory for all visitors entering Arunachal Pradesh.